We had the best time with Brian Bicknell, owner and winemaker for Mahi, a winery based in Marlborough, New Zealand. Not only was he super knowledgeable and approachable, he was hilarious and not afraid to speak his mind. It therefore makes total sense that his wines really do speak for themselves and hold their own in what the rapidly expanding and (potentially) relatively saturated market of New Zealand/New World wines.

In lieu of the usual glass of bubbles on arrival, we opted to open the evening with Mahi Sauvignon Blanc 2023. The focus for Mahi with the Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is to provide a wine that has texture and depth rather than focussing solely on primary fruit notes. Brian wants a wine that satisfies across the palate, and as such utilises whole-cluster press and natural yeasts, and a portion of the juice is barrel-fermented in older French oak to give greater weight, whilst ensuring woodiness is not evident on the nose. This wine shows an array of fruit characters, ranging from citrus through to tropical notes, complemented by some secondary characters from the natural yeast ferments and the (small proportion of) barrel ageing. The palate has an elegant structure with a creamy, textural mid-palate and a long finish.

The canapes to support this wine were simple, to allow the wine to do its thing. The Tempura New Season Asparagus & Tender Stem Broccoli with Sweet Chilli Dip brought an oiliness/fattiness to balance the acidity of the wine, and the veggies provided a perfect crunch.

After the initial mingling and welcome from Brian, everyone sat down with a glass of 2022 vintage Pinot Gris – beautifully aromatic, with honeysuckle and ginger on the nose leading to peach, pear, and apple on the palate. Again the focus is on texture rather than just primary fruit, so a small proportion of the juice was barrel fermented, and the decision was made to utilise only the free-run juice for this vintage, to give more elegance and subtlety to the final wine. Head Chef Damian’s Grilled Prawns with Asian Salad & Pineapple Dressing really allowed this Pinot Gris to sing.

Next, we tried both the 2018 Alias Sauvignon Blanc AND 2022 Twin Valleys Chardonnay side-by-side. The method to my madness was that the winemaking processes for both are very similar, and so I wanted to take that opportunity to showcase the varietals themselves – they still express themselves very differently even when made under the same/very similar conditions.

The grapes for the Alias sauvignon are harvested from a small single vineyard, hand picked, wild fermented in barrel and aged in French oak barrels and bottle before release. This combo has created a savoury, complex and textural wine with clear indicators of the barrel ferment and time on lees, coupled with vibrant aromas of tropical fruits like passionfruit and pineapple, and zesty citrus notes. The Twin Valleys chardonnay comes from the hand-picked grapes form the two valleys nestled in the heart of Marlborough, and undergoes much the same processes, resulting in an elegant wine with hints of green apple, lemon and grapefruit. Its rich yet delicate texture is a result of the perfect balance between alcohol and acidity.

For this pair of expressive wines, I wanted a fairly neutral (yet delicious) base, to build flavours onto. We settled with South Coast Plaice, Chicken Wings, Chicken & Tarragon Cream. The sauce was decadent and rich, and the delicate, melt-in-the-mouth plaice was the perfect vessel to convey the texture and character of both wines.

Our one red of the evening was the 2021 Mahi Pinot Noir, paired with Hampshire Lamb Rump, Crispy Belly, Courgette Ribbons, Turned Potatoes, Vierge Dressing & Jus. A true gastronomic experience – the softness of the lamb, perfectly cooked, the savoury earthiness of the courgette and the sauce vierge, and the rich, comforting jus. The pinot noir comes from three vineyards in the Marlborough valley, and it is mouth-filling, ripe and supple with good complexity and a full, rich yet detailed bouquet. Dark cherries and plums combine with soft tannins to give a well-rounded finish. Definitely my favourite pairing of the night.

If anyone wasn’t already stuffed, we served a small plate of Tunworth and Oatcakes just to finish off. If it is an indicator of success – everyone was asking for more wine all night, so clearly Brian is doing something right!

Brian was so charismatic, and spent all night chatting to people, explaining his wine and telling his story. He had the perfect level of humour and lighthearted banter, whilst being a total gent. On a personal note, I’d love to get over to New Zealand and do some work with Brian in his vineyards and winery…. Maybe one day.